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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.