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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and palm sugar gives it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with aromatic spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a rich, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, make the vegetable curry component ahead of time and layer everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and sauté, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and simmer for two minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the temperature, place lid and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the biryani, place a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then layer with half the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and spice blend, then add the reserved fried onions. Top with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover grains. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Take out of the oven, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" describes flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the mix includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in pickles. The blend also appears in various types of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then reserve. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and fry, stirring, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, fry for a minute, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add 50ml liquid to the pot, salt with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, turn down the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then add the mango powder, stir well and present hot with chapatis or leavened bread.